Class%20-%20Migration%20Period%20Costume, , Knigi

[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
Migration Period Costume
(400 to 800 C.E.)
Class Outline
Bow
Brooch
I. Introduction: “What We Know”
A. The Disclaimer
B. Tribes and Locations: A Brief History
C. Sources
1. Extant Garments
2. Contemporary References, Illustrations
3. Trade Routes and Cultural Contacts
4. Archaeological Record
a. Childeric’s grave: the 1630s
b. Victorian plunder
c. Two princesses: the 1950s finds
d. Modern reconstructive work
II. The Basic Elements of Frankish Garb
A. Functional Jewelry
1. Brooches: bow, disk, animal
2. Buckles: belts, shoes, garters
3. Chatelaines and their accoutrements:
a. utilitarian: knife, scissors, comb, pouch
b. unknown: crystal ball and perforated spoon
B. Decorative Jewelry and Trim
1. Earrings, rings, necklaces, bracelets
2. Embroidery and couchwork
3. Metallic brocaded weaving
C. Textiles
1. Locally produced: wool, linen, hemp
2. Imports: silk
Iron Chatelaine
III. Women’s Garb: Eight Pieces (Tunic, Peplos, Caftan, Cloak, Belt, Veil/Vitta, Leggings)
A. Early Germanic and Ostrogothic
1. Peplos, possibly worn over a tunic
2. Bow brooches hold tunic in place at shoulders
3. Leggings fastened with garters
4. Utilitarian items worn dangling from belt
B. Early Merovingian (400 to 650 C.E.)
Domina Clotilda Suessionensis
July 28, 2001
Page 1
1. Tunic over tunic, possibly with caftan, belted
2. Leggings fastened with garters
3. Bow brooches worn between waist and knee; act as chatelaine to hook
on utilitarian items
4. Disk brooches and animal fibulae pin cloak or caftan closed at chest
5. Vitta and veil for the married
C. Late Merovingian (650 to 800 C.E.)
1. Trade routes disappear
a. Bow brooches replaced by iron disk chatelaines
b. Textiles shift
2. Disk and other small brooches used to pin caftan, possibly veil?
3. Leggings fastened with garters
4. Vitta and veil for the married
IV. Men’s Garb: Four Pieces (Tunic, Leggings/Trousers, Cloak, Belt)
A. Tunic
1. Worn short – to knee – and belted/bloused at waist
2. Possibly trimmed with clavii, medallions (similar to Byzantine style)
B. Leggings/Trousers
1. No clue as to construction
2. Gartered at knee; possibly wrapped on lower leg
B. Cloak
1. Pinned on sword-arm shoulder with simple bow brooch (earlier) or
disk brooch (later)
1. Possibly trimmed all around hem
Perforated
Spoon
V. Finishing the Look
A. Shoes: leather, fastened with decorated buckle and strap end
B. Hair
1. Men wore mustaches, but no beard
2. Women wore their hair down until marriage, then pinned it up
C. Feast Gear
1. Utensils: wooden spoon, knife
2. Glassware: cups, plates, bowls
3. Pottery: cups, plates, bowls
4. Metalware: bowls
Belt Strap
End
Domina Clotilda Suessionensis
July 28, 2001
Page 2
Migration Period Costume
Sample Reconstructions
Grave of Arnegunde
ca. 650 C.E.
Reconstructions of Arnegunde’s Costume
By Max Martin, 1991
This reconstruction is included merely as a demonstration of how the evidence of grave goods and
textile remains can be interpreted. I DO NOT AGREE with it in every particular; Martin seems
here to be following the Werner’s lead. Personally, I think they wouldn’t have worn short skirts
(even under a caftan)—and that’s just the beginning of my protests.
What we do know of Arnegunde’s clothing is that the following fabric remains were found in the
grave: a linen tabby; a hemp tabby; a chevron-twill wool; an “Ottoman” silk with vegetable fiber
warp and silk weft; a composite -twill silk with vegetable fiber warp and silk weft; a samitum silk
lined with a linen tabby.
Domina Clotilda Suessionensis
July 28, 2001
Page 3
(400 to 800 C.E.)
Migration Period Costume
Sample Reconstructions
Early Sixth Century
Late Sixth Century
Two more reconstructions; these are from the early sixth century and late sixth century. I do not
have sources for these reconstructions. However, the one on the left illustrates the Frankish habit of
wearing many items from the belt. The one of the right shows a less wealthy woman; it was drawn
based on a grave finding in Pleidesheim.
These reconstructions show the use of the cloak, rather than the caftan; they also, like the Arnegunde
reconstruction, show relatively short skirts—something that surprises me.
Without further information on the grave findings, it would be difficult to judge the accuracy of
these reconstructions.
Domina Clotilda Suessionensis
July 28, 2001
Page 4
(400 to 800 C.E.)
Migration Period Costume
Annotated Bibliography
Boucher, Francois.
20,000 Years of Fashion
.
Nice pictures of Arnegunde’s grave, as well as some nearly-contemporary illuminations.
Brown, Peter.
The World of Late Antiquity: AD 150-750.
Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, Inc. 1971.
Pictures include details of bow brooches clasping cloaks, and a manuscript portrait of a woman
ca. 750 from the Gellone Sacramentary.
Brown, Katharine Reynolds, Kidd, Dafydd and Little, Charles T., eds.
From Attila to
Charlemagne: Arts of the Early Medieval Period in The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Yale
University Press. 2000.
An amazing collection of essays on the Metropolitan Museum’s early medieval collections.
Includes costume reconstructions, amazing photographs of the antiquities, and information
about how the Met’s collection was assembled.
Burns, Thomas.
A History of the Ostrogoths
. Indiana University Press, Bloomington, IN.
1984.
Excellent source on the history and culture of the Ostrogoths; includes costume reconstructions.
Crowfoot, Elisabeth, and Hawkes, Sonia Chadwick. “Early Anglo -Saxon Gold Braids.”
Medieval Archaeology, Vol. 11 (1967), pp. 42-86.
Don’t be fooled by the title – this article lists every finding of metallic brocading on the
continent as well as in England, and provides a lengthy discussion of the Frankish “vitta” or
fillet. Excellent resource.
Geary, Patrick J.
Before France and Germany: The Creation & Transformation of the Merovingian
World
. Oxford University Press, New York, NY. 1988.
Good overall political history of the Merovingian period, with a focus on the clashes between
(and eventual cohesion of) the Roman and Barbarian worlds.
James, Edward.
The Franks.
Basil Blackwell, Ltd., Oxford, UK. 1988.
A wonderful, readable source that includes excellent sections on economy and society (e.g.,
daily life). This book has great pictures of grave finds, modern-day reconstructions of
Frankish houses, etc. This book is probably the best introduction.
Jörgensen, Lise Bender.
Northern European Textiles Until 1000 A.D.
Aarhus University Press,
Aarhus, Denmark. 1992.
I don’t have this book. I want this book. I’m citing it from intermediary sources.
Domina Clotilda Suessionensis
July 28, 2001
Page 5
(400 to 800 C.E.)
[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]

Class%20-%20Migration%20Period%20Costume, , Knigi

Odnośniki